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Post by bkrblood on Aug 10, 2010 16:20:14 GMT -8
ok so im really seriously thinking about setting my bike up as a track bike right now its stock. in your opinion what would you say would be the smartest things to get for the bike in which order. im not looking for much more power(yet) but what would you say i should put my money towards other then the obvious track days. thanks you guys!
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Putz
Committee Member 
Luke
Posts: 1,123
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Post by Putz on Aug 10, 2010 16:24:49 GMT -8
I did springs first but your bike comes much better set up then my F4i did. Rearsets were next for me. I like having braided front brake lines.
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Post by scotinexcile on Aug 10, 2010 16:42:06 GMT -8
Suspension, Brake lines, Brake pads, Rear Sets in that order
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Post by bkrblood on Aug 10, 2010 16:48:36 GMT -8
anything in particular as far as suspension goes? i had jason take a look at it this weekend and he made a few minor adjustments. and a quick question on the brake lines should i do the rear as well or not even worry since i dont think ive ever touched it on the track.
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Post by Admin on Aug 10, 2010 16:54:11 GMT -8
Sorry guys. I moved this to here as it is more appropriate than the classified section (where you sell things). This is garage type advice ;D
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2wcp
Full Member
Posts: 117
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Post by 2wcp on Aug 10, 2010 19:39:45 GMT -8
Suspension, Brake lines, Brake pads, Rear Sets in that order exactly what I would do too, plus at Mapped PCIII at the end, because you need smooth power delivery. Suspension, I would check to see if the springs need to be changed for your body weight, and then depending on what you are planning to do and your budget, do the valving, or drop in cartridge kits in the front, and valving or a new shock on the rear. It all depends on budget and cost to value. |
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Post by 1trackmind on Aug 10, 2010 19:54:21 GMT -8
My brother told me "the most important investment to make first is in youself!"Lessons 1on1, gear, then tires, survive the learning curve. Medical insurance HUGE! Is that what I did? NO!
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Post by Justin(o) on Aug 10, 2010 22:10:02 GMT -8
I disagree with 'tires'
Schools are an excellent way to improve.
But until then ScotinExcile has it right.
I don't have a steel braided rear brake line, fyi.
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2wcp
Full Member
Posts: 117
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Post by 2wcp on Aug 11, 2010 0:24:33 GMT -8
Oh yea the steel braided line in the rear isn't necessary either.
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Post by scotinexcile on Aug 11, 2010 6:26:27 GMT -8
Oh yea the steel braided line in the rear isn't necessary either. But you got to have some "bling"!!!!!! ;D |
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Post by Admin on Aug 11, 2010 6:34:58 GMT -8
But you got to have some "bling"!!!!!! ;D Chrome your swing arm ;D |
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Putz
Committee Member
Luke
Posts: 1,123
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Post by Putz on Aug 11, 2010 8:34:01 GMT -8
I don't have a steel braided rear brake line, fyi. Its a matter of preference and comfort. I like the feed back I get from having braided lines, and the fact that when bled right you won't smash your fingers in the brake lever if you pull hard. Yes, it has happened to me. |
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Post by Gangplank on Aug 11, 2010 9:46:03 GMT -8
Suspension, Brake lines, Brake pads, Rear Sets in that order exactly what I would do too, plus at Mapped PCIII at the end, because you need smooth power delivery. Suspension, I would check to see if the springs need to be changed for your body weight, and then depending on what you are planning to do and your budget, do the valving, or drop in cartridge kits in the front, and valving or a new shock on the rear. It all depends on budget and cost to value. So would this be a decent order to look at things in terms of cost/value since I know he's on a budget to some extent: a) Suspension - set SAG front and rear and have the other settings done by someone who knows. If SAG up front is good no problem or change fork springs/revalve if needed (my guess is with your weight stock is pretty close). Set the rear but a new rear shock can probably wait unles your SAG is out of range (unlikely). Did you have JPH set yours this weekend? It was $20 at the track? If not Steve at 2wcp can probably do the SAG adjustment/other adjustments for you for a small fee. Eh Steve? Or you can do it at the next trackday if suspension guys are there. b) Steel lines up front, new brake pads all around c) Rearsets d) Power Commander + maybe an aftermarket exhaust if you want the bling and noise. Why are you considering track skin now? Only reason to get it is if you need to repalce what you have or for bling factor. OR to preserve your stock stuff for when or if you sell it. At the rate you are going this bike will be a track bike so ride what you have and spend on other things. If you go down someday get plastics then.... |
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Post by bkrblood on Aug 11, 2010 15:32:26 GMT -8
i want to get a set of track skins that way if i do go down all my street stuff is still safe. it will eventually become a track bike but untill then i still use it to commute. i also know going down is something that will happen at the track especially since im pushing myself now harder. so if i do go down i would rather have a set of cheap plastics go down and not have to replace lights and blinkers and expensive street stuff.
i have seen several kits and im looking cheap i guess at this point
Factory body works about $420 shipped
Hotbodies race set $499 plus shipping
Armour bodies around $699 plus shipping
Shark Skinz? ive heard big bucks but worth it.
Like i said im more or less just looking to get some ease of mind for when i go down without having to replace a ton of stuff. especially after seeing the wreck involving a certain r6 with street plastics.
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2wcp
Full Member
Posts: 117
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Post by 2wcp on Aug 11, 2010 15:52:26 GMT -8
Stay away from Hotbodies. Its junk.
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