Oneup's 2011 Racebike build

[Dale]

BWAHAHAHAHA

Good one Morgan

[zipbyu]

Thanks greg. looks like I have to check mine now. Remind me not to invite several people to watch and give me crap the whole time. I enjoyed the show, Thanks.

[rgmrts]

When dub said this thread needed more pics ....aww nevermind funny stuff Morgan

[Oneup]

OK, time to start the actual write up. To build a race bike the stock bike had to be completely torn apart.

John and Lisa took the fairings off for me









Then I started taking the rest of the bike apart. I started with the tank and then the battery.

For some reason Yamaha thought it would be a good idea to make it so the tank bracket had to be removed to pull out the battery.


After that I removed the wheels, forks, clipons, throttle cables, clutch cables, front and rear brakes, rearsets, radiator, and exhaust.

Everything under the tank:


Inside the airbox:


The charcoal canister and everything attached will be removed:


Kickstand, rearset, chain and sprocket all need to be removed:


Bikes torn apart and waiting for another day:

[dub]

Interesting about the ECU. When you say they limit the power through the ECU, I assume it's just because it comes with a conservative tune from the factory? But wont the bazzaz take care of that when it adjusts paramaters such as fuel, timing, afr, etc?

I got my battery in and out with out removing the tank braket. It was a pita.

[zipbyu]

The ecu will always limmits everything. the bazz,dynojet, or other mods. just piggy back the factory ecu. They help but the factory ecu is the brain. If someone had the software to program the stock ecu preameters on a dyno It will be a better than anything. The piggy back stuff has to read the info and react to the bikes ecu. which takes time.

[Oneup]

Feb 4, 2011 7:44:32 GMT -8 zipbyu said:

The ecu will always limmits everything. the bazz,dynojet, or other mods. just piggy back the factory ecu. They help but the factory ecu is the brain. If someone had the software to program the stock ecu preameters on a dyno It will be a better than anything. The piggy back stuff has to read the info and react to the bikes ecu. which takes time.

Well put. A fuel module like power commander only increases or decreases the amount of fuel into the motor. It is done by percentages and throttle position of what the ecu is sending out. That is why you have to dyno tune a bike if you install the module. Otherwise you are just guessing. If you put an auto tune on the bike it monitors the exhaust gas and tells the module to make on the fly adjustments based on pre set parameters.

The stock ECU on the r6's are supposedly limiting the bikes to 80-85% of their capabilities. Some of this is done by fuel injection but mainly by controlling the throttle bodies. On a stock R6 the throttle bodies won't open all the way in certain gears and certain rpm's. I've been told this is to help meet emission standards but I'm not sure I believe that. I do know that you can buy a race ECU from Yamaha that isn't limiting like the stock ones. They cost around $1500 and don't include the necessary harness for your bike.

[dub]

Oh, so the bazzaz (or PC) isn't actually adjusting other parameters, just fueling?

[Oneup]

Powercommander just adjusts fueling. You can then get an ignition module to adjust ignition timing. That is it. I believe Bazzaz does both with one unit. That is all that they do.

[Redleader]

What's the difference then between flashing the stock ecu and a factory race/adjustable ecu?

[Oneup]

The race ones are adjustable. You have to have the right programs to adjust the race ones but it is programmable. The stock one isn't programmable at all. A couple of people have figured out how to reset it to a specific map but you can't get the software and change it on the spot like you can with the race one.

[Gangplank]

Are all bikes like that? I know kawi sells race ECUs for the zx6 and others. Sounds like yamaha too.

Interesting...

[jlavallee]

Is that the case with the 06 & 07 R6's too? I know the 08+ are variable stack. Who is flashing the ECU and how much?

[Oneup]

Feb 5, 2011 8:15:56 GMT -8 Gangplank said:

Are all bikes like that? I know kawi sells race ECUs for the zx6 and others. Sounds like yamaha too.

Interesting...

Just about every bike that is raced has a kit ECU for them. Before the AMA forced everyone to make all of their race equipment available it was hard to get them. One of the few benefits to the new AMA rules.

As far as reflashing goes I think that only Yamaha actually limits their bikes when stock. I haven't heard of any other brands needing a re-flash.

Is that the case with the 06 & 07 R6's too? I know the 08+ are variable stack. Who is flashing the ECU and how much?

I don't know how much of a difference the reflash makes of the 06 &07. I know the variable stacks are part of the reflash but the biggest part is the throttle by wire system.

[Oneup]

Part 2:

Now that the bike is stripped down to almost nothing it's time to do some basic checks on it then start putting it together. The first thing I want to do is a valve check. Many brands suggest checking the valves right after break in (500-650 miles) then again at every 15000 miles. For some reason Yamaha thinks the first valve check should be at 24000 miles. Since this is a race bike I'd like to make sure it is in tolerances at least once a year.

First I have to get this heat shield out of the way:


From here we can see what needs to be removed next, the coils, the cylinder identification sensor, and the smog system:


With the plugs, coils, and sensor removed I can now pull the valve cover. I left the smog system on because it looked like it would be easier to remove once the valve cover was away from the motor.:


Next we remove the pickup rotor cover:



Now it's time to pull the valve cover:


It's hard to see in the pic but the next step is to align the cylinder to top dead center. There is a mark on the pickup rotor and another one on the case.


Now you check the valves starting at cylinder number one. You need to make sure the cam lobes are facing away from each other then push different size feeler gauges in until you find the correct size. The feeler gauge should be a tight fit. After you check once cylinder you turn the pickup rotor 180 degrees and check the next one. You check the cylinders in the order 1,2,4,3

Here is me checking cylinder number 1:


Since I am removing the entire smog system it is time to prep the valve cover. The smog valves get removed and replaced with block off plates:


Valve cover ready to go on:


Valve cover being installed:


Valve cover back on with plugs, coils, and sensor reinstalled:


The last part of the smog system is to make sure to block off or tie together the air hoses on the throttle bodies:


Next it's time to do the next Yamaha specific thing: the clutch mod. R6's come with a slipper clutch but they aren't great at "slipping" it takes a lot of backforce to cause them to slip. The solution to this is to modify one of the retention springs to make them "slip" a little bit better.

You start by removing the clutch cover, clutch springs, and pressure plate:


Now we can see the slipper springs which are being held by the clutch boss nut:


All three springs:


The modification is to cut the three prongs off of one of the springs. I've been told by some people that you can just remove one completely but I've also been told that you need the washer in there. I do know that graves makes a smooth washer to install in place of the spring so I opted to cut the legs off and reinstall the modified "washer". Here it is ready to go back in:


Now I'm finished with everything that I am going to do inside the motor.